“Creation must ‘shock.’ ”. He worked under Cristóbal Balenciaga for a decade before starting his namesake line in 1961 (with a fiscal assist from Balenciaga himself). It is also the most populated city in Tuscany. André Courrèges was one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century; in the mid-1960s he changed the way women dressed, and did so almost overnight. Paco Rabanne with a model in one of his link dresses, 1966. Courrèges showing in Kyoto in April, 1993. The designer, who passed away yesterday at age 92 after battling Parkinson’s disease, preferred to bypass the archives and put his energy into innovative space-inspired looks. Entries (RSS) To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. “Sometimes a dress isn’t able to communicate all the emotions that I wish to convey,” he said. But as fashion marched on, the consummate futurist didn’t adapt to the present day, but clung to his own — now seemingly dated — vision of the future. Fashion designers tend to find their greatest inspiration in eras past, but André Courrèges had his feet firmly planted towards the future. Some inventions, like oversized sunglasses with eyelashes on their lenses, never went beyond the realm of sixties curios. Rabanne’s dresses revealed more than they concealed, but critics reacted less to his exposure of the female form than to his technique. Brooklyn Bridge Park was the site of their first date, proposal, and wedding. Gundlach, 1965, André Courrèges, Dress, photographed by Regina Relang, 1972, André Courrèges, Dress, photographed by F.C. It is during these years that the Space Age begins, a great creative era shared by Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne and André Courrèges. Perhaps his biggest innovation, though, was his insistence that women be comfortable. Courrèges showing in Kyoto in April, 1993. The Presentation Dansée in January, 1969. André Courrèges brought us the triangle shaped shift dress as the defining silhouette for the 60’s. Even the designer Pierre Cardin got fascinated by this style, and presented a collection with space helmets, leather shorts and dresses in transparent glossy vinyl. He was widely credited with inventing the miniskirt (though that distinction is disputed, with Mary Quant also laying claim to it) and the so-called “second-skin”— think a onesie made from tights. “It is important to remain impertinent, radical,” Rabanne once said. Sci-fi was born in the early twentieth century, but the phenomenon exploded in the fifties, in the United States. Atomic Age design became popular and instantly recognizable, with a use of atomic motifs and space age symbols. These were matched with flat boots, goggles and helmets taken from the equipment worn by astronauts. You\'ll receive the next newsletter in your inbox. Catherine Deneuve arriving at the airport in London wearing a Courrèges coat and flat boots in June, 1965. A Courrèges white, sateen bunny jumpsuit with brass polka dots in, Model in a yellow Courrèges cotton dress in. Fir... Space Age: Futuristic Fashion Designed by André Courrèges From the 1960s, Beautiful Portraits of Carrie Fisher Posing for Premiere Magazine in 1989, 25 Cool Polaroid Prints of Teen Girls in the 1970s, 20 Vintage Photos of Famous People With Their Minis From the 1960s and 1970s, Beautiful Photo Shoot of Teenage Lynne Frederick on the Set of ‘No Blade of Grass’ (1970), 40 Fascinating Photos Capture Street Scenes of Florence in the 1960s, Two Rare Photographs of the X-Rated Furniture of Catherine the Great, Vintage Roadside America: 30 Cool Photos Show Signs Along the U.S. WordPress Celebrities tried to make the best of a strange situation at the 2020 Venice Film Festival. Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, in Apollo XI, were the first men to walk on the moon in 1969. 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The Blogazine – Contemporary Lifestyle Magazine is proudly powered by Let's start from the beginning. The press began to treat him as a relic, with Libération writing in 1983, with somewhat ironic phrasing, “Courrèges evokes a modernism so dated one is almost amazed he still exists.”. He liked to compare his atelier to a laboratory. Many of the outfits had cut-out midriffs and backs and were worn without a bra. They were all about discovery. His designs included angular mini dresses and trouser suits. © 2020 Vox Media, LLC. Obviously, this fashion reached the cinema too: a super sexy Jane Fonda in the cult Barbarella, dated 1968, wore daring spacial overalls, designed for her by Paco Rabanne, another forefather of the period that – due to the use of materials such as metal, aluminum, plastic, plexiglass and even fiber optics – aroused the indignation of Coco Chanel, who described it as “the metallurgy of fashion.”. 72 Designers on Their Spring/Summer Inspirations. (He’d later sell DIY kits consisting of discs, rings, and pliers.) Gundlach, 1965, André Courrèges, Pantsuit, photographed by F.C. An Elopement Among the Lupines in Iceland. But often suggestions also came from the fashion and the catwalks, to demonstrate the fusion between these two art forms. “Paco’s Sewing Kit: Pliers and Wires,” blared one New York Times headline. Its imagery interprets a vision that transcends the boundaries of genders and slips between literature, film, fashion and that continues, year after year, to be presented on the catwalk in many and ever-changing ways. Sci-fi is not only a literary genre, or just part of cinematography. A Dance Party Under Puerto Rican Palm Trees, A Zoom Wedding Only Two Digital Creatives Could Produce. A model in a Courrèges bathing suit in Paris, 1965. The couple coordinated multiple video segments, breakout rooms, and a dance party. Courrèges thought the designer, not the client, knew best, and proudly refused to negotiate changes in his styles with the Duchess of Windsor. Among the brands to land on Vogue Runway’s Fall top 10 list was Paco Rabanne, where creative head Julien Dossena presented a breakthrough collection featuring the chain mail that was one of the house founder’s signatures. He favored flat shoes, modern fabrics like PVC and plastic, and A-line silhouettes that were meant to be worn without a bra, as opposed to the strict New Look with its wasp waists and padded busts. Gundlach, 1965, André Courrèges, Ensemble, photographed by Peter Knapp, 1965, André Courrèges, Dress, photographed by William Laxton, 1960s, Audrey Hepburn in André Courrèges Hat, photographed by Douglas Kirkland, 1965, Kellie Wilson in André Courrèges Ensemble, photographed by Bert Stern, 1969, André Courrèges, Mini-Dress, photographed by F.C. Born in 1934 just outside San Sebastián, Spain (close to the birthplace of Cristóbal Balenciaga, for whom his mother worked as a seamstress), Rabanne lived in France, a refugee from the Spanish Civil War, from a young age. In 1963, John Glenn was the first American to orbit the earth. He was particularly known for his streamlined 1960s designs influenced by modernism and futurism, exploiting modern technology and new fabrics. Instead of models, members of the design team sported the eccentric collection. [12] Paco Rabanne was known for his 1966 "12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials" collection, [9] which made use of chain mail, aluminum, and plastic. The 1970s were colorful and innovative. Arguing that “sewing is a bondage,” he made dresses not of fabric, but of earth-friendly paper and other non-fashion materials like plastic and metal, which were pieced together with wire and glue. Other influential space age designers include Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. At 17 or 18, he began studies in architecture at the École Nationale des Beaux Arts in Paris, designing jewelry and buttons on the side. The stark shapes and white and silver color scheme immediately earned the name Space Age. “Most couturiers gave me the boot,” he once said. When he was 30, Rabanne presented his first fashion designs. It appears, at least, that the future of futurism is in capable hands. Atomic Age in design refers to the period roughly corresponding to 1940–1963, when concerns about nuclear war dominated Western society during the Cold War. Rose and Jacqueline Kennedy, Gloria Guinness, Paulette Goddard, Françoise Hardy, the Duchess of Windsor and Lee Radziwill were among those who wore his designs. As a design movement, space age fashion was above all a French phenomenon, promulgated mostly by men in their thirties who had been trained in the old-guard Paris couture, but saw the need to refute some of their pedigree. Chin-strap space bonnets, flat … “The clothes float,” he said. He privileged geometric forms and primary colours and worshiped the modernist architect and designer Le Corbusier. The armor was almost necessary.”, “Paco’s dream of change,” as Vogue once put it, became reality on the runways this season.
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